I can't believe it's already been a week since we were getting ready to go to Montréal. We were very fortunate to have wonderful weather the whole time we were there (and for the drive). Granted, it was cold, but it was sunny. It was great to
visit a city that has a real winter, with lots of snow and crisp air ... but I'm so happy to no longer live in one!
Here are some highlights (my haircut will have its own journal entry):
They speak French! While I'd read all about the francophone/anglophone rivalry, I guess I didn't realize just how francophone the city really is ... while everyone can speak English, the first language is certainly French. I was actually surprised by how much wasn't translated into English. But I loved it. It felt very foreign ... and only six hours away!
We stayed in the Old Montréal neighborhood along the river and it is historic preservation at its best. Too bad cities in the US didn't embrace this before they ripped everything up in the name of "urban renewal." We were initially a little worried about staying there, as we'd heard it was touristy and cold (since it'a long the St. Lawrence); but maybe it was the season and the winter festival happening in the neighborhood that made it feel very alive ... even at 20 degrees and below.
French is one of our favorite cuisines and we really went all out. For my birthday dinner, we stayed within walking distance of our hotel, starting with Cuban rum and a sample plate of Québec cheese at a small bistro. Then we went to Bonaparte a few blocks away (voted one of the most romantic restaurants in town) ... and sat in a little nook at a window overlooking the street. We both had the tasting menu and it was incredible. Lobster bisque with fresh ginger, shrimp and scallops with a vanilla sauce, goat cheese wrapped in phyllo dough, filet mignon with peppercorn sauce and a trio of little French desserts (mine had a sparkler). We were stuffed after the third course, the servings were so huge, but we just kept eating ... and eating ... and eating ... we blew all our money on food and liquor. And it was worth every cent! However, we decided that we maybe ate
too good: We didn't eat poutine, even though we tried. (Poutine is a type of Canadian junk food, made a couple of different ways, but mostly including french fries, gravy and cheese curds.)
Aside from my haircut, we drove around checking out the city (since there was just too much to cover in a day), hopped out every now and then for window shopping and eats, and made it to the top of Mont Royal to go on a little hike and take in the view. It was great to see people walking down city streets with their cross country boots on and skis/poles in hand ... and parents pulling little children in plastic toboggans (sometimes the kids were sleeping ... remember playing in the snow until you were that exhausted?). The city neighborhoods also had some quirks ... like the marquee that read, "Holy Fuck 3." We never figured that out, but it was funny to see the cars slow down and heads turn as they passed it.
But, I'd have to say one of my favorite moments was riding one of those plastic toboggans down a 100-yard slide made out of ice. It was one of the free activities at the festival and was well worth the wait in the freezing cold. Mike and I got to race each other ... but it didn't matter who won ... it was just pure joy. The bumpy ride ... the smiling faces watching you as you zipped by ... the cold air in your face, making your eyes water ... I haven't laughed like that in a very long time ...
OK, so that's a good summary. Here are some photos ...